The key to success is to have many placements containing small amounts of bait. Thus, bait placements should be at spacings of 8-12ft. Use the shorter distances in severe infestations. It is best to overestimate the number of bait placements needed.
To maximize the chance of mice encountering rodenticides, bait should be placed between the mouse’s harborage and food source.
Place rodenticides in areas that appear to be the “favorite” feeding locations (evidenced by piles of droppings, shredded paper, etc.).
Whenever possible, install bait placements into corners, especially corners that are protected behind boxes or furniture.
Be sure to install bait in a 3D format. Mice commonly live above their food source (suspended ceilings) or below (floor voids).
Any existing bait placements that are not being visited within 1 week should be moved 5ft another direction.
Some mouse populations develop food preferences and ignore new foods or baits. In these cases, placing out both pellets and blocks should allow you to note feeding behavior and if one bait formulation is preferred over another.
Several of the general concepts for the proper baiting for House Mice also apply to Norway Rat control. Additional suggestions include:
Adult rats consume up to one ounce or more of food daily. Thus, sanitation efforts in combination with using baits will have much more impact. Rats hungry as a result of clean-up efforts are much easier to control than rats that have many food resources available. Therefore, as much of the rat’s available food source as possible should be removed prior to baiting.
Enough bait should be provided to ensure all rats have ample opportunity to obtain a lethal dose of the bait.
Rats travel farther to feed than mice, so placements can be spaced between 15 and 50 feet apart. The closer spacing should be used in heavy infestations. Every attempt via good inspections should be made to install the baits between the rats’ harborage and their food sources.
Place the baits out during the late afternoon so they will be fresh at dusk when rats become active.
For direct burrow baiting, the loose pellets or crumbled blocks should be inserted deep into the burrow.
Once bait stations are in place and feeding begins, avoid changing the bait or placement without reason.
Roof rats may be active at both ground level and areas above the ground. As a result, baiting for roof rats often is a bit more time consuming than when baiting for other rodents.
Roof rats tend to live in areas of dense cover, and thus inspections for such areas are good baiting zones.
Baits will often need to be installed in areas above the ground such as the rafters of garages, fence rails, trees, and various vines or shrubbery.
PVC pipes (2 inches in diameter) can be used as bait stations to bait overhead areas. Block baits can be glued or wired into the center of the pipes, and the pipe can be affixed to the ledge.
More bait placements with less bait is important to successful Roof rat control.
Tree-dwelling roof rats venture up and down their trees to access garbage cans, dog pens, and garages. For these rats, bait can be situated at the bases of trees to intercept the rats before they get to their regular food source.
Studies indicate that roof rats may be even more neophobic (scared of new objects) than Norway rats and this may delay the results for several days.
It is not advisable to bait roof rats inside structures as they may die in wall voids and create odor problems.
Extra precautions should be considered during roof rat control programs using baits if the baits are installed into elevated areas. All efforts should be made to prevent the baits from falling to the ground where children or dogs/wildlife will have access to them. If this cannot be assured, baits should not be used.
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week should be moved 5ft another direction. 
made to install the baits between the rats’ harborage and their food sources.
